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Post by baz on Sept 16, 2014 13:13:48 GMT
I have just finished a self-build (see projects in progress) It all went reasonably well but the most difficult part without a doubt was fitting the "claw" that takes the springs for the Trem, which was basically due to the difficulty in drilling pilot holes for the retaining screws. With a standard power tool its very difficult to get the right angle of approach in the shallow pocket that takes the springs  I should think the fender factories must have a special tool for it. Anyone had the same problem and found a way to get around it? Baz |
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Post by rogera on Sept 16, 2014 14:34:05 GMT
Try using a hand-drill. That should make it easier to get a shallower angle.
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Post by kipper on Sept 16, 2014 19:21:36 GMT
you can buy a Drill Bit Attachment Extension angle device that fits in the chuck of your normal drill which enables you to drill sharp angles. peter
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Post by somebodyelseuk on Sept 17, 2014 8:38:13 GMT
I bought a very long drill bit when I first did one. Couldn't say what the technical name for the drill bit is, but it's about a foot long.
To be honest, you don't want the holes parallel to the body anyway. It makes it easier to strip the screw heads (because you can't get the screwdriver in square), puts more strain on the wood/screw threads when tensioned up than when there's a slight angle - at an angle, the threads will bite into the wood when tensioned, straight on, they will tend to try and pull out.
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Post by lucky7 on Sept 17, 2014 9:36:47 GMT
You need a 'right angled' headed chuck, normally a Colet system. The cost of the proper tool is far too expensive for a one off. You might find a small right angled ratchet/driver by Mastercraft adaptable and very useful.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2014 10:42:21 GMT
i use a small modellers drill, for drill the holes for the claw ,
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Post by nessmonst on Sept 17, 2014 10:56:16 GMT
Also available a flexible/bendy extension attachment from about £2.50--allows you to get your drill bit successfully into the tightest of places!
Regards
David
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Post by DaveC on Sept 17, 2014 11:00:05 GMT
Julian's got the right answer -- the long drill bit is the way to do it.
I'd also point out that you are drilling into relatively soft wood (swamp ash or alder) so you don't need a high speed drill. A hand drill or an electric screwdriver (with a chuck attachment) is much more controllable.
Regards
DaveC
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Post by somebodyelseuk on Sept 18, 2014 8:58:33 GMT
...again, I would advise against drilling them dead square
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Post by baz on Sept 18, 2014 13:51:01 GMT
...again, I would advise against drilling them dead square Hi and thanks to all...........do you mean parallel to the bottom or sides of the spring pocket (or both)?? |
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Post by somebodyelseuk on Sept 19, 2014 7:22:59 GMT
...again, I would advise against drilling them dead square Hi and thanks to all...........do you mean parallel to the bottom or sides of the spring pocket (or both)?? Parallel to the bottom of the routing. If the screws are in line with the springs they will be trying to pull them out of the wood. With an angle, they will be levering them against the sides of the holes, causing the threads to bite into the wood. It's also easier and safer when wielding a screw driver on the heads. THE most important thing is that the heads are in the right place when it's all set up, so that the springs are not touching the sides of the rout or the back plate. |
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I should think the fender factories must have a special tool for it.
