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Post by DaveC on Nov 25, 2022 19:05:00 GMT
Here's the kit for building a Dallas Range Master boost: shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/rminvIt's dead easy to make -- the hard bit is sourcing a suitable germanium transistor. DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Apr 8, 2022 15:47:44 GMT
I've sent you a PM. DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 23, 2022 18:17:45 GMT
Garry,
The "screen" on the MagicStomp is actually a daughter-board comprising the screen and a couple of logic chips: this had the designation 162. The 162 is now obsolete and probably unobtainable. It has been replaced by the 1602, which will require the addition of a resistor to Pin3 (contrast) and will probably require a bit of surgery to the casing aperture.
I've sent you a PM.
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Sept 15, 2021 15:47:38 GMT
To get five more useable tones available at just the twitch of a fingertip, fit a Freeway switch: www.bareknucklepickups.co.uk/shop/product/free-way-5x5-10-way-blade-switchwww.thomann.de/gb/freeway_switch_5b5_01_black_tip.htmThe switch rocks up and down to give an extra bank of five positions (where + is parallel and - is series) Lower bank is standard Strat: 1. Bridge 2. Bridge + Middle 3. Middle 4. Middle + Neck 5. Neck Upper bank is the five new options: 6. Bridge - Middle - Neck (or alternatively it can be wired as Bridge - Middle) 7. Bridge + Middle + Neck 8. Bridge - Neck 9. Bridge + Neck 10. Middle - Neck This should come as standard on every Strat but Fender's attitude is, "Not invented here" -- i.e. someone else owns the patent. DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Feb 26, 2021 19:43:09 GMT
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Post by DaveC on Jan 2, 2021 18:22:26 GMT
Step One: Check your output cables and clean the sockets.
Step Two: Try routing the output of the MagicStomp to a different destination (i.e. pedal or amp input).
Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Dec 29, 2020 14:02:27 GMT
Hi Phil,
I concede! I should have said it's exactly like the "boost" part (i.e. the Output volume rather than the Gain) of an overdrive pedal -- because there's no way to overdrive the Overdrive.
But wind the Boost well up (as much as 20db is available) and the output signal definitely pushes the preamp of any guitar amplifier I've tried into mid-range harmonic distortion.
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Dec 29, 2020 12:42:13 GMT
Hi Matthew, The Clapton Mid-Boost Circuit is exactly like an overdrive pedal -- and it's perfectly possible to buy the add-on kit and build it into a stomp-box. The full circuit also includes the TBX active tone-control. If wound anticlockwise (from the mid position) it cuts the treble: wind it clockwise (from the mid position) and it cuts the bass. Using neck + middle pickups combined with the TBX tone and the Boost knob, it's possible to get a fair approximation of Clapton's famous "Woman Tone" -- which is why Clapton employs it ! www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzYks-CSpNg and www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftlKhQoVNBMI built the add-on kit into a Strat and I incorporated a DPDT switch (mounted on a Gilmour bracket) to act as a bypass switch. With the switch in the "aft" position the Boost is out of circuit. In the "forward" position the Boost is introduced at whatever value you choose to preset on the knob. If you don't want to cut a hole in the scratch-plate for a Gilmour bracket then you could use a DPDT Push-Push as the Boost knob. Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Oct 5, 2020 22:45:14 GMT
Hi Dave,
Pin 3 (VEE) controls the contrast. It is being fed something between 0V and +5V — whatever Yamaha decided was correct for the original 162 that they used — and you could lower this voltage by shunting it to Ground (pin 1 Vss) through a resistor. I believe this would decrease the contrast.
Pin 15 (LED+) controls the brightness of the backlight. The +5V supply could be lowered by shunting it to Ground (pin 16 LED-) through a resistor. I believe this would increase the contrast.
CAVEAT: Personally, I have never tried either of these mods. All my repairs used 162s , which worked first time. If anybody reading this has direct experience please “chip” in!
Regards, DaveC.
Have you managed to refit the top?
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Post by DaveC on Oct 1, 2020 13:59:54 GMT
Hi Dave, If you want, when you are ready to start this, I'll write out everything you need to do and explain some of the problems you might face. Let me know: I don't want to be teaching you to suck eggs . Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Sept 30, 2020 17:35:25 GMT
Hi Dave,
That looks to be OK but I think you need the Yellow/Green, not the Blue.
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Sept 29, 2020 20:43:46 GMT
Hi Dave,
The JHD162A is a generic part: there were billions of them used in early printers and photocopiers. Nowadays they are frequently used as the basic visual interface for Arduino computers. Just type “JHD162A” into the search box.
The internal logic chip is no longer made and has been superseded. The new chip is part of the 1602. The 162 and 1602 look exactly the same and fit in the same space and to the same connections.
You will be able to get a 1602 in the UK (m-house, theme3000, RS etc.) but I doubt that you’ll find a 162 — they’ve all gone to landfill.
Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Sept 29, 2020 16:02:34 GMT
If the screen, or more importantly the screen-controller chip, fails (usually because of overheating) then the MagicStomp registers this during startup and refuses to proceed. That's probably why your screen illuminates but nothing else happens.
You'll need to source a replacement screen and chip from China, using the auction website that cannot be named. The screen and the chip come combined on a single daughter-board with 16 solder connections along the top edge.
Try to get a JHD162A Y/YG rather than anything from the later JHD1602 series because a 1602 may require extra resistors to control the contrast and the supply voltage.
Remove the old board and solder in the new board. It's not difficult but it's time-consuming. You will almost certainly need to alter the aperture in the top casing using a file.
In the past, a few people on this site have offered to carry out this fix -- but don't expect them to do it free. As I said, there's a lot of work involved!
Regards, DaveC.
But, before you go any further, make sure you are using the correct power-supply! This is a common mistake.
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Post by DaveC on Jul 25, 2020 14:08:26 GMT
Chris,
The THR series amps have built in effects (Chorus/Flanger/Phaser/Tremolo) and built in time modulation (Delay/Delay-Reverb/Spring/Hall) but the delays are "single tap" not "multi-tap" -- so they won't give you Hank Sounds.
Instead you will have to use the delays on the G2.1 Nu (minus the amp sims) and feed that into the THR. An alternative would be to invest in a Hall & Collins Signature Echo or a Stanley Blue Nebula and so get accurate reproductions of Hank's echo patterns plus good simulations of the preamps in the various original echo machines.
The CRUNCH channel of the Yamaha is loosely based on a Vox AC30 or Matchless DC30.
Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Jun 15, 2020 16:35:44 GMT
"We're gonna need a bigger pedal-board".
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Jun 12, 2020 15:29:26 GMT
The Gardiner-Houlgate auction at Corsham, Wiltshire, SN13 9SW is on 25th/26th June 2020 and the catalogues have been published. Because of Covid-19 this auction will be conducted entirely online, although viewings and collections can be in person (by appointment): bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/info/id/169 Guitars, Memorabilia, Amplifiers, Effects, Spares and Audio Equipment will be on Day 1 (Thursday 25th). Other Instruments, Percussion and Antiques will be on Day 2 (Friday 26th). Expanded review of Guitars (part of Day 1) here: guitar-auctions.co.uk/catalogue-preview-10th-11th-june-2020/To log in for commission and telephone bids go to full catalogue Full catalogue for Day 1 (10 pages) here: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/catalog/id/169Full catalogue for Day 2 (7 pages) here: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/catalog/id/170Although "The Saleroom": www.the-saleroom.com/en-us/signupwizard/srgard10119/registeris still available for internet bidding, it is easier and cheaper to use Gardiner Houlgate's own site, GH Live: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/login If you plan to bid, you will need to create an account and register a debit/credit card: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/signup?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk%2F%3Fpage%3D1%26status%3D2 This can take about 10mins to clear -- so do it well in advance. Registering a card is not necessary if you just want to watch and listen online. Be aware that the video/audio link can lag behind the totalizer board by as much as 5 seconds so, if you decide to make a bid, pay attention to the numbers -- not the sound and pictures! DaveC. Remember that there is a Buyer's Premium to be paid, plus VAT on that Premium -- so don't bid higher than 80% of what you are prepared to pay.
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Post by DaveC on May 20, 2020 11:16:19 GMT
In the U.K. you are allowed to use "reasonable force" in defence of your life. It is up to the court and the lawyers to decide what constitutes "reasonable force". A 5-iron should be OK, but a fairway-wood or driver might be considered excessive. DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Apr 29, 2020 10:01:14 GMT
Hi Kay,
Take a look at the Yamaha THR10 (or THR10c) modelling amp: the "Crunch" model is based on a Vox AC30 (or Matchless DC30). It gives out 10W (5W +5W stereo), it's easily portable 'cos it's lunchbox sized and it can be battery powered.
You might find one cheap now they've been superseded by the THR10II.
Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 31, 2020 17:09:06 GMT
The best distance guitar teacher I have ever encountered is ace slide-guitarist and sideman, Kirk Lorange (look for him on YouTube). In one month I learnt more from his "Planetalk" cartoon book than I had in the preceding 30yrs. Planetalk uses a subset of CAGED (i.e. AED) to explain the "why" of chord shapes and the relationship of notes on the guitar fretboard (in Standard Tuning). www.planetalkguitar.com/Some of it seems ridiculously simplistic -- but only after he's explained it. Like the most baffling conjuring trick it's only easy when somebody shows you how it's done. Best $99.95 I ever spent. DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 30, 2020 14:25:45 GMT
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Post by DaveC on Mar 22, 2020 11:43:25 GMT
'50s and early '60s recordings were usually made on two-track machines and, for pop music, both tracks were needed for track-bouncing. Stereo wasn't an option unless it was a "live" (i.e. everyone playing at once) recording.
Even when four-track came into use, engineers and musicians were reluctant to waste tracks on stereo. The stereo-effect was often added at the final mix -- effectively a "remastering".
Listen to the mono and stereo versions of any of the Beatles albums up to, and including, Sergeant Pepper -- the mono versions are far superior.
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 10, 2020 12:33:54 GMT
Hi Mick, Yeah, what the world needs is a one string, one pickup, diatonic Stratocaster. Regards, DaveC. By the way, my new stage name is “Ironic Dave” .
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Post by DaveC on Mar 10, 2020 3:47:30 GMT
Hi Rob, Your mate was definitely onto something — but why not go the whole hog and get rid of the five-way as well? That would make things even easier. And, now I think of it, there’s way too many notes on the fretboard.... DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 8, 2020 18:46:02 GMT
Hi David, I know that you have already committed to the Gilmour wiring (a good choice) but my number one recommendation to anyone building or modifying a Strat is: Buy a Free-Way Switch 5B5-01 and wire it up according to “SSS Parallel Series Scheme A 1V/1T” or “SSS Parallel Series Scheme B 1V/1T”. Both schematics are published and explained on the Free-Way website: www.freewayswitch.com/app/download/8112261215/5B5-01+3PU+3Pot+Part1.pdf?t=1532631247 (pages 1 and 2) This gives you instant access to five extra (and very useable) tones by merely rocking the switch from side-to-side: no extra DPDT switch or button is required — and everything looks and operates like a “normal” Strat. Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Mar 3, 2020 16:46:35 GMT
The Gardiner-Houlgate auction at Corsham, Wiltshire, SN13 9SW is on 11th/12th/13th March 2020 and the catalogues have been published. Guitars will be on Day1 (Wednesday 11th). Memorabilia, Amplifiers, Effects, Spares and Audio Equipment will be on Day2 (Thursday 12th). Other Instruments, Percussion and Antiques will be on Day3 (Friday 13th). Expanded review of Guitar, Amps and Effects (most of Day1 and part of Day2) here: guitar-auctions.co.uk/catalogue-11th-12th-march-2020/To log in for commission and telephone bids go to full catalogue Full catalogue for Day 1 here: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/catalog/id/162Full catalogue for Day 2 here: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/catalog/id/163Full catalogue for Day 3 here: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/view-auctions/catalog/id/164Although "The Saleroom": www.the-saleroom.com/en-us/signupwizard/srgard10119/registeris still available for internet bidding, it is easier (and cheaper) to use Gardiner Houlgate's own site, GH Live: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/login If you plan to bid, you will need to create an account and register a debit/credit card: bid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/m/signup?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbid.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk%2F%3Fpage%3D1%26status%3D2 This can take about 10mins to clear -- so do it well in advance. Registering is not necessary if you just want to watch and listen online. Be aware that the video/audio link can lag behind the totalizer board by as much as 5 seconds so, if you decide to make a bid, pay attention to the numbers -- not the sound and pictures! DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Jan 21, 2020 14:07:56 GMT
I've had a lot of practice with my own '64 VOX AC30/6TB and VOX AC15H (EF86 channel), so I must point out that the tone-stack on the real thing is highly interactive -- wiggling the knob marked "Treble" affects a lot more than treble frequencies. It's the same with "Bass" (although the effect is less exaggerated) and there's a "Cut" control as well.
The tone controls of the AC Tone are much more straightforward -- they affect "exactly what it says on the tin" i.e. High, Mid and Low. This means that just transferring settings from the real amp to the AC Tone won't help you -- you'll have to do it by ear. Listen to the original recordings and tweak the AC Tone until it's as close as you can get.
DaveC.
Joe Walsh (Eagles) calls the Tech21 Liverpool his "Secret Weapon". Instead of using it as an amp-simulator he treats it like a boost/overdrive pedal and uses it to create harmonic distortion in the preamps of his various guitar amplifiers. I've no idea what settings he uses!
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Post by DaveC on Jan 20, 2020 17:33:25 GMT
Hi Les, The Joyo AC Tone (JF-13) is a clone of the "Liverpool" from the Tech21 Character Series. The layout of the knobs on the front panel has been altered and the "Character" knob has been relabelled as "Voice" but otherwise everything is the same as for The Liverpool. www.tech21nyc.com/t21manuals/CharacSeries-OMsettings_LV.pdfThe "Voice" knob controls the simulation of various incarnations of the Vox AC15/30: from fully anticlockwise to fully clockwise it moves through "EF86", Normal, Brilliant, Top-Boost and Treble-boosted Brian May. The "Drive" knob then introduces varying degrees of boost/overdrive/distortion. The tone controls are critical for emulating Hank's evolving sound. For example, for the early EF86 recordings you would have "Low" (i.e. Bass) fully anticlockwise. The AC Tone is a complete amp/cabinet simulator and ideally should be fed straight into a full-range acoustic amp or PA/mixing-desk. A guitar amp will add further colouration -- so you are right to set the tone of the guitar amp as flat as possible. The various echo-machine simulators don't just create echo patterns -- they also simulate the preamp(s) in the original echo-machines so, to get the full effect, they really need to be placed before the AC Tone. Regards, DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Oct 24, 2019 13:58:20 GMT
Whenever the bridge is free-floating (and not deflected by the arm) then the total tension of the springs will be exactly the same as the total tension of the strings.
This is why adjusting the claw (and then returning the strings to "in-tune") only changes the equilibrium/balance position of the bridge .
The springs -- regardless of their number, strength, or position -- do not alter the tension in the strings or the bridge position. Altering the springs only changes the spring "rate" i.e. ease of deflection.
DaveC
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Post by DaveC on Oct 1, 2019 12:47:22 GMT
Hi Dave,
A simple but crude way of putting the just the link into a ProBoards thread is:
1. Open the YouTube item using a browser, 2. Highlight the entire YouTube URL at the top of the browser page, 3. Press Ctrl-C (this copies the URL to the Clipboard), 4. Place the cursor in the Create box or Reply box of the ProBoards thread, 5. Press Ctrl-V (this pastes the URL into the box) and, when you've finished writing the rest of the message, 6. Post the new Thread or Reply.
DaveC.
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Post by DaveC on Jan 11, 2019 15:01:32 GMT
You can 'walk' up Mathew Street using Google Earth (Street View). The image is dated 06/2014. The doorway to the old Cavern is still marked and the new one is further up on the opposite side. Weirdly, the older statue outside (not Cilla) has had its face pixelated to protect its identity -- so I won't compromise it . DaveC.
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