'Trem arm tension'

[shawbridge]

Hi
does anyone know how one can tighten up the Trem tension on a strat, so as not to alter its height, to make it less sensitive?
many thanks
Pete

[Stu's Dad]

The answer's in the springs Pete. I think more springs should stiffen it, and maybe even a complete new set, they must get a bit stretched if you use the trem a lot. Axesrus and Allparts do generic sets of three or four, but Stringsdirect do a set of 5 original Fender Fender springs for about £9.

See you Saturday,

Len

[shawbridge]

Hi Len,
Springs in great condition on the guitar, checked them, they a superb quality, the issue is, I have got used to the 'Hank Trem' and were it sits, if I adjust the springs in any way, I will loose the exact spot at which it rides, only out by a fraction and you will miss the strings, its that critical.
On my 70s Strat, I had it almost flat down but couldn't do that with this because of the trem arm design, it rises up naturally, so it wont ride flat like on a 70s strat.
I thought there may have been a way of tightening it whilst the Arm is in situe.
thanks Len, are you there on Saturday?
Pete

[grottyshep]

Hi Pete,
Dont know if your strat has a screw in trem or push in.If its a screw in you could check the tiny spring that is down the hole where the arm screws in quite often they fall out unnoticed,or maybe a bit of ptfe plumbers tape on the arms thread.If its a push in arm there is a small set screw on the back of the block you have to depress the trem to see it and just nip it up a bit.Hope this helps.
Steve.

[grottyshep]

Sorry Pete,ignore my last comment,Ive just realised you are on about the tension of the springs and strings and not the arm itself.You could maybe add a spring and increase string gauge or even bend the arm a bit to get it to the same position.
Steve.

[shawbridge]

Hi Steve,
yes, its a tricky one, I am on 3 springs at the moment, when I used all 5, it was way too tight and any adjustment to get it how I wanted it put the Trem even higher.
cheers
Pete

[Roger...]

Hi Pete,

I purchased a new USA Standard Strat in 2012. After playing it a few times I felt that the trem was over-sensitive and only had to breathe on it to alter the string pitch. I opened the back up (trem spring cover) to find three black trem springs which were slightly narrower diameter than all that I had used previously, with slightly narrower gauge spring wire. I replaced the three springs with ones of the normal size and guage that I was used to, and bingo. Job done. I did have to back off the spring claw a bit though to bring the bridge setting back into position.

I hope this helps.

Regards
Roger

[rogera]

You are correct in that adding springs will pull the trem arm down a little but the claw that the springs attach to can be adjusted to compensate for that.

The claw is fastened with two woodscrews and if you add springs in order to make the trem arm less sensitive then you should undo (anticlockwise) each of the two screws a little bit at a time until your trem arm sits where you want it.

[mojolomjl]

Hi Pete,

I usually just bend the trem arm so it sits in the correct position whatever the spring tension.

[Stu's Dad]

Pete,

Yes I'll be there on Saturday. My next suggestion would have been exactly what Maurice has just said. I've got a Strat on which the trem arm was ridiculously high, so I drilled a hole in a blick of wood to fit the threaded end and then bent the long part to just where I wanted it.

See you at the weekend,

Len

[DaveC]

Hi Pete,

The tension-springs always have the same total tension as the tuned strings, as long as the bridge is free to move.

Adjusting the claw simply moves the balance point, i.e. the height/angle of the bridge-plate.

Changing the number or type of the springs doesn't alter the total tension -- it alters the spring-rate, i.e. how easily you can deflect the bridge plate from "zero". This is how you change the "sensitivity". You then have to adjust the claw to regain the correct balance point.

Winding the arm in and out against the compression-spring controls the total friction on the helical bearing surface -- it is not a screw thread that has to be "torqued up". Do not wind the arm to adjust height.

So:
1. Add, remove or change the tension-springs to give more or less "sensitivity".
2. Adjust the balance point (using the claw screws) so that the back of the bridge-plate sits at the correct height above the top of the guitar. This should be about twice the thickness of a credit card -- more if you want to assist wound 3rd string bending.
3. Wind the vib-arm in (against the force of the compression spring) until you have the absolute minimum friction required to stop the arm flopping. Too much friction will accelerate wear of the bearing surface.*
4. Check the height of the arm above the top of the guitar and bend the arm to the position you require. You will have to remove and replace the arm to do this.

If you have made any drastic changes to the original balance point then you will need to tweak the saddles for action and intonation.

Regards,
DaveC.

* I remember that you prefer your vib-arm to flop -- so ignore 3.

[shawbridge]

Hi everyone,
thanks for all your suggestions, what I will do is experiment with what you have suggested, I will get this gig over with first on Saturday, then have a look.
I tried the method of easing out the Spring screws as first off, when first got the guitar but I felt that any further adjustment with the screws and they would loose contact with the wood, so feel I'm more or less on the limit that way.
I will have a look next week and let you know how I get on with it.
glad you can make it on Saturday Len, I will make sure I put 'Theme from a summer place' in my set :-)

cheers
Pete