Bullet catch in tremolo cavity

[sheendigs]

Hi There
My friend told me that since he had a Wilkinson tremolo that he had to fit an easy-mute...he sent them the block.
It appears that they have fitted a 'bullet catch' at the bottom of the thread of the tremolo bar to impeach the tremolo from dangling at the end of its course.
They must have threaded the case to allow for adjustment.
This is what a bullet catch looks like:
www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=58949&cat=1,44047&ap=2

Anyone has one of those fitted...?
I found it a nifty gadget.. ;D
Sheendigs

[garystrat]

Hi Sheendigs

Interesting, I wonder if a small ball bearing on the top of a standard Strat trem spring might do a similar job?

It always surprises me that so many people discount the replacing of the trem spring as being a good solution to floppy trem arms.

Gary

[sheendigs]

Hi Gary
A bearing on top of a spring is the same principle so long as one does not lose the bearing....it would involve putting a tape each time one removes the tremolo arm....the reason of the bullet catch is that it stays there without any hassle.
Sheendigs

[garystrat]

Hi Sheendigs

I don't think that is a major problem, when the trem arm is in place it is captured. When I transport my Strat I take the trem out and place a rolled cardboard plug in the hole to stop the spring dropping out, it amazes me to find that quite a few people don't realise there is meant to be a spring in there, and it either falls out or gets lost without them noticing. The key would seem to be getting a bearing with a close fit diameter to the bore, to ensure it remains central to the base of the trem arm.

As I see it the potential advantage of having a bearing is that it gives a more evenly distributed point load at the centre of the trem arm base, theoretically this should have a better load distribution than peripheral contact at the base of the threaded area and hopefully put less load on the thread. Fender springs tend not to be very compliant and to compress with time, allowing the arm to become loose and it tends to work against the thread in use.

I believe that one of the replacement hardened steel blocks has a tapered base to the arm and an Allen key under the bridge to adjust arm tension and keep it in place. Callaham seem to believe the problem is lack of support at the top of the thread and also offer an alternative solution:

guitar-xperience.com/onlinestore/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=135&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=29&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=38&vmcchk=1&Itemid=38

Details on the Wilkinson block seem to indicate a pure push fit:

www.pure-tone.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=191

I don't think this would give rise to problems if the tolerance is right, as the trem action is more of an offset side leverage.

Gary

[sheendigs]

Hi Gary
The wilkinson theory is interesting, but it has a push-in tremolo bar..If I remember well, having tested one..a long time ago..the tremolo arm would be dangling back and forth..
I prefer one that I can lock in one place..

[tonybiker]

I am with Gary here. If the spring is in place then it should not dangle about all over the place. It should remain in place and easy enough to still be moved when needed and moved back again.

[rogercook]

My Wilkinson trem has a push in arm which pushes into a plastic sleeve. There is a grub screw in the block near the top of the drilling that enables you to adjust the grip that the plastic tube exerts on the arm so it stays where you put it but is easily removable

Roger

[garystrat]

Hi Sheendigs/Tony

Getting the trem arm right is something that bugs many players, a good friend who is a professional tribute artist had a hardened steel block fitted about two years ago to a custom shop Strat and is delighted with the result. The arm stays in place and there is zero movement, the downside is that the arm is not easily removed and is left in play when it is put in his case. Although it positioned forward towards the top corner for transport, I still have a niggling doubt that the case lid is still touching.

I am known in my local Shadows club for having a rotating supply of springs, on both my American Standard and Mexican Strat periodic replacement keeps the arm in place and allows smooth movement without any form of flop. However, on the Mexican (which is my favourite) I do tend to get slight play when using the arm, this is probably due to to either the thread/arm not being well toleranced or the block not being of a sufficiently hard steel.

The trick is to ensure that the arm is just tightened sufficiently to ensure it contacts with the spring without over compressing it.

Gary

[hubert]

Hello all, here's a tip for those who have a tremolo -arm permanent fitted, you can put some sort of grease on the trem-arm, and then put some powder on it, so you can make a print of the arm on the inside of the top of the case, when you close the case with the guitar in it. close the case softly, and the powder will leave a print of the arm inside. than take a stanly knife and cut a slot in the top of the case , there were the print is, so when you close the case, the trem-arm will fall in the slot. It will work when the case have a sort of foam on the inside. After that you'll have to clean the trem-arm, and remove the rest of the powder. By this way there is no pressure on the arm when the case is closed, case is closed:-0, Hubert.

[john]

Hi Gary, Sheendigs

A couple of months ago I raised the question on tremolo arms and blocks with Fender Scottsdale Arizona. I always believe go to the top if a problem arises.
Extremely helpful as usual, sod all reply from them. They must have a confuser there and keyboard with DELETE on every key. Then again they are no different than Fender Botany down here in Oz with ordering parts. I waited 5 months for a thumb rest for my P bass and still waiting, a mate of mine made one up out of Indian rosewood and a nice job too........... The cost? a cup of coffee. As for the tremolo arms I bought a 2 feet length of 5mm rod the other day and will make a couple of arms myself, the cost of the steel 50 cents so will do some experimenting.
I just love dealing with Fender as it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling!

John M

[garystrat]

Hi John

I noticed there is about 1.5 mm gap around the trem arm and top bridge fitting, you seem to have access to machining facilities, I wonder if its worth trying a tapered radial shim from something like Delrin (plastic) that could be slid down the arm after fitting for extra support?

Gary