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Post by pacman on Dec 28, 2009 21:27:27 GMT
Hi all. What type of grease or oil do members use to lubricate the nut on their fingerboard.According to Haynes manual the author uses graphite mixed with vaseline.As yet I have never used anything but as I've started to get some of the strings to ping I thought it time to do something about it, before I did I'd be interested to know what fellow members have used and found it worked for them I suppose the answer is a graphite nut but then its finding someone reliable to fit it. I've never seen anything in a guitar shop that comes in a tube already mixed As I have a rosewood fingerboard any form of oil is out of the question as it would soak into the wood Pacman
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Post by asimmd on Dec 28, 2009 21:33:40 GMT
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Post by Charlie Hall on Dec 28, 2009 21:33:47 GMT
Hi Pacman, I have used graphite mixed with vaseline and it works well enough. I stopped using it because I didn't like the appearance of the building up of the black substance. I now use a light oil that was given to me, it's called key oil, I think it is marked by Selmer for their wind instruments. Sewing machine oil is probably very similar. I haven't had a problem with rosewood boards as any surplus should be removed immediately after applying. It is a good idea to apply whatever you are using under the contact points of the string tree too, if you have one. Regards, Charlie
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Post by Alcopop on Dec 28, 2009 21:38:18 GMT
Hi Pacman, i use lipsyl applied with a cocktail stick.
Regards,
Fred
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Post by olemuso on Dec 28, 2009 23:35:01 GMT
Valvoline works as well - it`s what trumpeters and trombonists use. I got some years ago off a drummer I was with who also played trombone, piano and string bass!
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Post by John Haldane on Dec 29, 2009 16:19:36 GMT
I use a pencil, just gently mark the grooves in the nut. Take care John H
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Post by peterbower on Dec 29, 2009 16:30:30 GMT
I would pay to use an acid free synthetic grease such as Lubroteknic or one of the specialist PTFE Synth greases which can usually be found in gun shops.
Greases that contain acids such as mineral based grease can attack the plastic nuts. There is a special grease that is designed to lube plastic on metal [the name escapes me at the moment] but it can be found in gun shops and is used on air rifle mechanisms where there is high friction between metal and plastic.
Peter
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Post by zager on Dec 29, 2009 17:36:26 GMT
hi pacman. this is a bit long but its worth a read. copyed it from a web site cant remember which one it was..regards tony.......................................................................................... There are four main types of tuning lubricant used today by guitar technicians: petroleum based gel, wax, oil, and graphite. As with anything else, each has its pros and cons. 1. Petroleum Based Gel – These have become popular as some manufacturers have developed clever applicators and dispensers for pinpoint applications. The lubrication is a clear jelly that prevents runny messes. Vaseline, with a toothpick applicator is a good alternative if you don’t want to drop the big bucks on the expensive stuff. Pros: Easy to work with applicators Cons: Expensive. Some contain penetrating properties that will discolor or cause plating to flake off. 2. Wax – Dental tape that is waxed is perfect for getting into those tight nut slots. Some technicians like to use a piece of twine rubbed over candle wax instead of dental tape. Either one accomplishes the same effect. Pros: Low buck and readily available at most stores. Wax will not discolor components. Cons: The wax tends to break down when exposed to higher temperatures, leaving no lubricity. 3. Oil – Common household oils or mineral oils are good choices. Use very sparingly as too much will create a mess. Be careful not to use penetrating oils as you could end up with discoloration or chrome plating flaking off. Some technicians run a small drop down a needle as an applicator. Pros: Low cost and easy to find. Excellent anti-friction properties. Cons: Very messy. Difficult application. Penetration properties can ruin components. 4. Graphite – This has been a popular choice for many years. A sharpened pencil tip or mechanical pencil will get the graphite into tight string channels on the nut. The lubricity properties are not as robust as the petroleum based lubes, but it does help. Pros: Low cost and easy to use. Cons: Lubricity properties can be limited and not as effective across a sharp string saddle. Avoid Penetrating Properties We mentioned earlier some of these tuning lubricants can have penetrating properties. Penetrating oils and lubricants should be avoided as they can penetrate into a guitar’s components. Unfortunately, some of the more popular (and expensive) petroleum gel based lubricants can be very penetrating. Be careful in which one you select. Here is the question: Is this harmful? At the very minimum, the nut has been discolored, which is a cosmetic issue some guitarist might not like. Long term, you can expect the aging of this component to be altered. Penetrating oils and lubricants have been known to soften materials like wood and plastic…a possible issue for a plastic or bone nut.? Conclusions From our experiment, we have seen the pitfalls with tuning lubricants. Some petroleum based tuning lubricants can have penetrating properties that can harm your guitar. Lubricants such as wax and graphite are fairly passive, but limited in their effectiveness when compared to their petroleum based lubes. Some tuning lubricants can be very expensive for the small amount you get in a dispenser. If you use a petroleum based tuning lubricant, find out if the manufacturer has a guarantee against instrument damage from their product. Tuning lubes can be a nice tweak to your guitar’s tunability. Be wise when selecting which one will work best for you.
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Post by pacman on Dec 29, 2009 20:13:44 GMT
Hi Guys asimm It looks good but as you say expensive.
Charlie I think a synthetic based oil like the Selmer oil would be safe to use. Alcopop Thats an interesting one but when you think about it its a mild form of grease olemuso Its probably a similar oil that that Charlie suggested John It is graphite and its easy to apply Peter Next time I pop into town I'll pop into the gun shop and check it out telstars It makes interesting reading at least it lets you know what not to use.
Many thanks for all your replies and may I wish you all a Happy New Year
Kind regards David
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Post by JohnG on Dec 30, 2009 12:24:01 GMT
Try using model car transmission oil (radio controlled)
Cheers....
JohnG....
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Post by joeboy on Dec 30, 2009 13:30:04 GMT
I have been using Radio Control model car transmission grease, it's a thickish silicon grease, very slippery & doesn't turn to liquid & spread about like other grease/oils A small amount applied with a matchstick to the nut grooves & a very slight smearing on the strings where it contacts the nut works wonders, no slime or gunge with this grease. Because it's so slippery you need only a very small amount so you don't run the risk of deadening the strings Something else worth considering is to upgrade the string trees to the ones with the small rotating rollers, my guitar seems to stay in tune for ages with these fitted, very cheap & a doddle to change I use 12-52s & have never had to enlarge the grooves in the nut on any of my guitars, the above method works great for me
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Post by noelford on Dec 30, 2009 15:21:14 GMT
Blimey! I am genuinely gobsmacked. I've been playing guitar since around 1960 and have NEVER lubricated my nuts (if you'll excuse the expression!). Since I have never suffered any problems, I'm just wondering what I have missed!
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Post by pacman on Dec 30, 2009 21:28:16 GMT
Hi johnG Thanks for your reply it seems you and joeboy are on the same wavelength Happy New Year to you and your family.Regards David ;D ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hi joeboy Thanks for your reply I might just give it a try I 'll certainly fit one of those roller string tree's. The problem started when I changed the strings from 9-42's to 10-46's. Happy New Year to yourself and your family Regards David ;D
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Post by graeme on Dec 30, 2009 22:46:03 GMT
The problem started when I changed the strings from 9-42's to 10-46's. So the larger strings are now binding in the nut slots! You need to recut the slots to suit the new gauge strings - lubrication is not the answer. I'm with noelford on this issue. I've been playing guitar for nearly 50 years now and I've never needed to lubricate the nut. OTOH, I have learned how to set up an instrument so that such bandaids are not necessary. Roller trees help, but staggered machines are even better, because you can ditch the string trees altogether and lose a major source of friction. Another trick is to use a graphite loaded nut, but I've never felt the need personally.
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Post by pacman on Dec 30, 2009 23:56:28 GMT
Hi Graeme I agree with what you say. I bought my first strat in 1961 Flamingo pink I had it stolen then had my second one in 1965 I never had to touch them in all that time I packed it up in 1967 but of course they were made in America not all round the world like today.Mines made in Mexico but I tried about eight of them before I found a good one. What I''ll do is let them bed in with a bit of silicon grease and then take it from there
Regards David
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