Springs for the tremolo arm

[allclaphands]

I wonder if anyone knows were to get the springs
for a tremolo arm from without the postage costing
nearly as much as 4 springs cost ,
Springs 99p each postage nearly £4 ;D
Also do they cure the floppy trem arm problem
tried everything else tape ect it only works short
term.Any practical advise welcome
Thanks
Pete

[garystrat]

Hi Pete

There are always differing opinions on this, but I always found that springs helped on the Strats with a standard block. I found the answer is to only tighten the the arm down until it just starts to compress the spring, over tightening will squash the spring and there is no compliance. This in most cases improves the wobble, but I would say not a total cure.

On my Mexican Strat I have changed the block to a Callaham and trem arm, this has a short threaded arm with a Delrin bush in the top of the block, which stays pretty much where you place it without the wobble. You can also use standard US threaded arms as well.

www.callahamguitars.com/blocks.htm

There are also other cheaper steel blocks available if you want to go this route.

Gary

[Deleted]

Pack of 6 - £4.80 Free postage

www.axesrus.co.uk/Fender-Tremolo-Arm-Springs-p/099-4931-000.htm

They work really well

Jimbo

[shadoogie]

Just make sure your threaded hole in the block doesn't go all the way through
On a Squier Classic Vibe 50's it does and the spring just drops through!
I reckon I use more PTF tape than a plumber

[allclaphands]

Thanks Gary Jimbo and Shadoogie
Gary i to have a mex american standard strat
was wondering what the cost of a new block
against the springs but as you say the springs
are not a proper fix'
Jimbo thanks for the posting I think I will get
some. I notice you on a You Tube video playing
drums with a band called Bungleflint at the
Warwick Shadows Club some talent hey.
Shadoogie like you I to have a Squier classic
vibes 50's (not red but white) so that stops
that then if the hole goes right through.
Once again gents thank you its amazing
how helpful the members on this site are
Best Regards
Pete

[frankmarvin]

Hello Pete, I have the same problem with my Mex strat, great guitar BUT a d**n*d Monkey Metal trem sustain block the threads of which wear out / stretch / strip: like Shadoogie I was forever re-tapeing with PTFE, tried springs they did nothing to help - seems to tighten the trem arm but dont take out the * play * in the arm when useing it: Just today I have ordered a steel block ( original Fender part) for 1/3rd of the price of a Callaham from a guitar shop in Bingley , Yorkshire: ( Just the block so all your parts bolt back onto it ) why buy a whole bridge assembly if you dont need it: I will look on my purchase history from e-bay and post you the address: Make sure you order the 2 1/16 inch version, of course check your exsisting one first: OK Here it is :
johnnyguitarfirstavenueguitars:
Item: Fender USA narrow rolled steel tremolo sustain block:
Price: £22.95 + £1.75 postage:
He has 100% feed back with 2176 sales: From Bingley, West Yorkshire:
Within 45 mins of ordering he mailed me back saying it was now in the post:

Hope this helps us both and gets rid of that awful wobble:
Regards: Frank

[frankmarvin]

Sorry, I forgot to say, His shop is on e-bay, if you want a couple of springs I'm sure he will throw them in with the deal he seems a really decent guy:
Cheers, Frank:

[somebodyelseuk]

Hiya.
I have a Callahan block on my Mex Strat = zero play in the arm.
I always find the spring is good for keeping the arm from swinging about, but has no effect on the play.
Jf yer handy with a drill, you could mod the block to take an appropriately sized poly tube to support the arm and eliminate the play - not for the squeamish.
Cheers, Julian

[behanka1]

Hello all,

Just a quick word about floppy tremolo arms. I have always found that plumbers tape was a very unsatisfactory solution. As has been mentioned in these postings, it works for a short time, and then the whole boring process has to be repeated.

For many years now, I have been using just plain cotton. Wrap some around the thread of the arm - you'll have to experiment with just how much to use - screw it in, it might be a bit tight to start with, then waggle the arm about a bit to loosen to taste, and ... 'Bob's your uncle'. It works a treat and it lasts for months! I can't recommend it highly enough. Give it a go, you'll be amazed.

All the best, Gary Taylor.

[frankmarvin]

Wow Gary what a great idea, I have never heard of or thought of that, bit late for me now, having ordered a steel block but I will certainly be bearing that tip in mind
Thanks :

Julian do you mean just ream out the trem base plate for the plastic tube or take it so far into the block itself?, I've wondered about this before but never been brave enough to do it:

Cheers, Frank:

[George Lewis]

Hi Frank,
I discovered and use on one Strat the PVC tube mod from Aussie Barry. It works !!
There are variations, but basically separate the baseplate and block, then use a 9/32 (7mm) drill into the block trem hole (very slowly and carefully) about 1/3 or 2/3, leaving some of the threaded section untouched (not critical as the arm self threads into the PVC anyway). Do not drill the baseplate. Push a piece of PVC 5mm tubing (you may have to slice it to fit) so that it is flush with the top of the block. Put the baseplate back on. The arm can now be screwed into the tubing and there will be no play yet be easy to move around.

Alternatively, use Gary Taylor's cotton thread method ... much better than PTFE tape.
Thanks to Gary for this tip .. even though he did not specify what colour or brand of cotton to use ... perhaps a contractual constriction with the TVS team. ;D

Regards
George

[carl c]

Hi pete,
I recently ordered a lot of guitar parts from John of first guitars of bingley and as Frank mentioned he is very reliable and knowledgeable regarding guitar parts.
A good guy to talk to and ask about prices.
If your arm is the smaller diameter arm 5mm I think there is a 6mm arm that you could tap out to before you change the block but you need the 6mm arm,should last as good as new.
Carl

[allclaphands]

Thank you all for your replies to this on going
problem with the loose trem arm. It gives me not
only a number of options and well as the cost
and leads to follow up on it's really good of you all.
I would like to add if this is a manufacturing fault
why then don't the manufacturers realize this
and alter the specifications accordingly? or is it all
down to costs i'm sure if enough feed back was
sent to them they might feel obliged to do something
about this.It seems like having to pay twice for the
Tremolo block to get it to work properly. ;D
Your comments and thoughts will be appreciated
Many Thanks to you all its good to have such a collection
of members on this site willing to help and advise
So I say Cheers to you all.
Pete

[somebodyelseuk]

Pete.
It's money and Fender don't listen to feedback. It took a dramatic drop in sales in the US, thanks to Tokai, before they looked into sorting all the problems out on the '70s' Strats.
There are better parts out there than Fender use and there are plenty of temporary fixes.

@frank. The sleeve idea is something that is incorporated into the Callahan block and they supply the appropriate arm with it - you just state the arm length you require.

Cheers, Julian

[frankmarvin]

Hi George, thanks for that info, makes sense not to drill out the base plate as it will then hold in place the tube, but wont I have to drill it out over size? 5mm with a 5mm arm wont leave any plastic sleeving, or am I missing something?
I jumped the gun with Gary's cotton idea and started to look for some , no problem finding red cotton but sunburst cotton is proving to be a nightmare.

Carl: Yes you can buy 6mm arms but it would involve drilling a clearance hole thro the trem base plate I tried that , also if the block is Monkey Metal, ( alloy / white metal ) it wont be long before the same problem occurs: I reckon a steel block with a plastic bush should be the answer, at least I hope so, mine should be here today or tomorrow so I'll soon find out:

Pete: Because of Fenders apparent reluctance to correct this built - in flaw / weakness , they have made room for a whole pleathera of industries, Wilkinson , Floyd Rose, Callaham etc etc: I suppose in all fairness the problem occurs mostly in the Squiers / Mex instruments with cheaper blocks , but having said that, even the top end guitars are not immune : A bit of thought on their side should have had this thorny problem corrected donkey's years ago: Corporate thinking beats me, they spend a fortune on developing and marketing the adjustable neck ( horrible invention ) But yet ignore the real bone of contention, the tremolo stability:
OK I'm off to take the dishwasher to bits looking for some plastic tube:
Cheers, Frank:

[somebodyelseuk]

Frank,
Crazy as it sounds, the old man used to tie fishing flies, you can actually get sunburst thread, believe it or not.
As for Fender, if people keep buying 'em, they aren't going to change it. If you swap trems after they get their wedge it's no skin off their nose is it? There are better 'Strats' out there than Fender's, but as long as people won't see past the head logo, Fender will keep ignoring their customers.

[George Lewis]

Hi Frank,
Oops sorry, yes it should be a 9/32 (7mm) hole with 5mm ID PVC tube.
Here is a link with some photos by Barry.
charliehall.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=guitars&action=display&thread=6648
Good luck with the sunburst cotton .. in the 60's we used hemp of course .. sure smelled funny.
cheers
George

[allclaphands]

Hi Frank
Whats a pleathera (jokingly)
down here we all drive tractors and
walk round sucking straw o 'ar o' ar
my old beauty
I think I might try gary's cotton thread
theory,which colour? O dear that will
probably take a week to work out
Keep Smiling
Pete

[grip]

Jan 24, 2013 13:20:54 GMT allclaphands said:

I think I might try gary's cotton thread theory

Waxed cotton AKA dental floss works well

[allclaphands]

Thanks Grip
For your reply. what with the cotton and
now the dental floss it will take me a
couple of weeks to work this all out
(only joking)
Regards
Pete

[Deleted]

Here's what I did.
I can't stand a floppy trem.

Made a bit of stainless steel tube with a reamed 5mm bore and silver soldered it onto a spare arm I had. Stainless steel M5 allen screw ( Mexican strat) and bingo, job done. Tighten screw to taste.

Attachments:

[frankmarvin]

Ok I'm back: Ordered the rolled steel block at 1pm yesterday, it arrived 1 hr ago and its in and works brilliantly absolutely NO slack / free play whatsoever, watch out for the trem thread, it was wrong for my 5mm arm, luckily I had a 10-32 ( I think ) spare and thats screwed straight in, of course John also sells the arms to fit, but worth mentioning:

George: Ahhh that sounds more workable, thank you for Barries link, I'll copy it for future reference: Hemp ?? with that stuff who cares if yer trem goes slack? both your other arms go slack anyway .

Pete: if your block is alloy (try it with a magnet) your gonna have to swap it at sometime or another I reckon:

Julian: I hope the fish appreciated all the trouble your Dad went thro to get the right cotton:
What you say about the headstock logo is, I'm sure very valid - BUT at the end of the day I suppose its something to do with being associated with an icon:

Anyway, I am chuffed to little nuts that the new block works well:

Regards, Frank:

[frankmarvin]

Ecca: what a clever invention 10 / 10:
Frank:

[SPIKE]

Hi George

Gary put me on to plain cotton many years ago and I have found that to be the best and cheapest way out.
Cotton also lasts for ages and I havent changed it on my guitars for over a year.

Ive tried plumbers tape and wax and other things but Gary's idea has proved the best for me.
PS: You also get a free reel of cotton for every TVS3 you buy ;D ;D ;D

Cheers
Spike

[frankmarvin]

George: Have you altered your first post changing 5 mm to 7 mm or did I read it wrong in the first place? if so I apologise and will use my glasses next time:
Cheers, Frank:

[frankmarvin]

Julian : I now remember that a few months ago you mentioned a big improvement in tone when you fitted the Callaham block: I have to concur, my sound is now far brighter, so much so that I have to now change all my presets on the amp as its TOO bright for my taste playing the old Shadows numbers, sustain has also improved markedly:
Cheers , Frank:

[allclaphands]

Having read up on the Callaham Trem Block
I am really impressed.Made of cold rolled steel
with a Delrin Bush which takes all the pressure
of the threads (which I think is where the fault lies
with the ones installed in the mex and Squier guitars)
also on there web site they(quote) guarantee you will
hear a sustainable difference in sound clarity .
It is just a pity these are not fitted as standard
but like what as been said by Julian. Fender do not listen
to there customers and just do it there way (shame) ;D
Right back to learning "The Miracle" I think I need one
to get it done.
Pete
Looked on The johnnyguitarfirstavenue site as Frank
recommended and its as he said. So all in all its solvable
it's just a matter of cost.Thanks all for the info.

[frankmarvin]

Pete: Callaham trems are un- knockable BUT expensive, at the end of the day , the choice is yours, I have simply pointed out an alternative that works, all I can do is reiterate what I have already stated , that the ones from Bingley do the job admirably at a third of the cost:

Regards: Frank :

[abstamaria]

Since Hank's trem arm on Cliff's original Strat must have had the freeplay, too, his trem technique on the early pieces (when waggling that bar) must have been largely to push the arm down, as pulling up to raise the pitch will simply take up the slack.

What do you mean, Spike- cotton thread? That seems a good idea.

By the way, my guitar tech suggests asome white glue down the whole to keep from losing the trem spring.

Best,

Andy

[SPIKE]

Hi Andy

Yes...cotton thread. Gary showed that to me years ago and it works well.



Cheers
Spike